The mood at Vivienne Westwood’s Spring 2025 show was completely different as Andreas Kronthaler appeared to emerge from a period of mourning following the iconic designer’s death.
This season was about the only thing he loved a lifetime ago: sexy, feisty women, Kronthaler said backstage. But it was deeply tied to the brand’s late founder.
He described the type of woman he was attracted to as “a very strong woman who takes care of us, my ideal woman,” and he sought that archetype in every woman he met. “But everyone is different. There are all kinds of things,” he added.
There was less emphasis on historical elements. Instead, the collection exuded a mix of the aerobic sensuality of Jane Fonda’s workout videos and the carpe diem attitude found on the Studio 54 dance floor. The shape was sophisticated and sexy, with a plunging neckline and shimmering sheer fabric.
Meanwhile, the daywear selection gave off a boss lady energy, the best example of which was Irina Shayk’s white double-breasted ensemble.
Dressing up and living in the moment is “the most important thing, because you never know what’s going to happen to you,” Kronthaler said. You always want to look great. ”
Spring 2025 also marked the end of the co-ed era for the brand. “This time I was able to focus on the women. I didn’t want to be constantly distracted by the men. We used to do this in the past. We always have men and women, but at some point So we changed, and now we’re back to a women-only job and other days we have men,” Kronthaler added.
Displaying the site, which is just a stone’s throw from Place de la République, a hotbed of protests, is a major move for the brand, which is currently detained in Greenland and under threat of extradition to Japan on anti-government charges. It was also an opportunity to advocate for the freedom of marine wildlife conservationist Paul Watson. The Antarctic whaling campaign is highlighted in the brand’s show notes.
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