COPENHAGEN — Who would have thought the day would come when Danes would get tired of blazers?
At Copenhagen Fashion Week Spring 2025, designers were looking beyond sharp, tailored shoulders and beige color palettes, but they also had some suggestions for those who can’t give up on matching their wardrobe with their morning beverage.
Here are some of the key trends emerging in the Danish capital.
Forces of Nature
OpéraSport’s design duo, Stephanie Gundelach and Awa Malina Stelter, looked to nature to create a show on the water’s edge outside the Copenhagen Opera House.
“The collection was inspired by a hidden gem north of Copenhagen: the enchanting Exilion Garden. This private garden is a testament to the harmonious blend of natural beauty and architectural elegance,” said Stelter.
Opera Sports, Spring 2025
James Cochran
The duo sent out an army of models to brave the strong winds in red silk above-the-knee skirts, plain black dresses with ruffle detailing, and baby blue and black swimsuits – the brand’s signature colour combination – perfect for a dip in the water after the show.
Another designer duo, Janette Madsen and Thora Valdimarsdottir of Rotate, also went green with their elegant show in the Royal Library Gardens.
The inspiration was the 1920s, but instead of flapper girls and feather boas, there were black fringed dresses, silk and lace dresses and dresses made to resemble folding screens, leaving what was underneath to the audience’s imagination.
Rotation, Spring 2025
James Cochran
There’s always a reference to weddings in Rotate’s collections, which is a smart move for the duo because they know their brand is bought by brides-to-be and party girls alike.
“We wanted to capture the ultimate mood of summer: the warmth, lightness, freedom and romance of the season,” Madsen said of the soft floral prints that appeared throughout the collection.
home sweet home
After more than 27 years living and working abroad, Danish designer Peter Jensen has returned to his home country to launch his new brand, Yours Truly.
“It’s a platform for artists to collaborate with me, themselves or with partners. It’s more of a project than a collection to sell,” said the designer, who has collaborated with London-based photographer Annie Collinge, artist Julie Verhoeven and stylist Jacob K.
Yours Truly by Peter Jensen, Spring 2025
The presentation was a celebration of individuality and expression, a refreshing idea for a brand that started in Copenhagen, given the city’s reputation for fitting into boxes.
Jensen cast women over 45 and dressed them in layered tulle dresses, floral smock dresses, floor-length capes and unusual shoes in metallic silver and chunky, architectural shapes.
The women enjoyed wearing the clothes as much as the designer enjoyed making them: The two even danced together during the presentation.
Astrid Andersen’s new brand “Stel”.
Danish designer Astrid Andersen, who was on the London Fashion Week calendar before the pandemic, chose Copenhagen Fashion Week to debut her new label, Stell.
She has been working full time on the brand for over a year, which marks a departure from the kitschy streetwear designs she previously presented in London.
Andersen has grown, and so have her clothes: her designs now prioritize functionality and durability over street credibility.
“Finding the right poplin fabric for the shirts was the biggest challenge of all,” she says, pointing out the variety of easy-to-wear shirts available in classic blue stripes and solid colors.
To mark the brand’s launch, Andersen has signed a retail partnership with concept store Storm, which will sell Andersen’s creations, with prices starting from 89 euros for t-shirts and just over 500 euros for coats.
The designer, who was heavily involved in the music scene with her previous label, hasn’t let go of her connections: She enlisted American rapper and songwriter A$AP Nast to style the collection.