For nearly a year, the world has been horrified by the relentless atrocities that Israel has inflicted on Palestine. Many have responded by protesting on social media and in the streets, boycotting pro-Israel brands, and making statements through art, writing, and fashion. Fashion statements in support of Palestine have been particularly popular, with celebrities adopting them at major events to make their stand against the ongoing atrocities. Many designers around the world have been inspired by the Palestinian cause, creating capsule lines dedicated to Palestine.
In Pakistan, designer Nomi Ansari did just that with her houndstooth and kefir-inspired collection, which debuted in February. Launched with an eye-catching campaign, the “Threads of Hope” collection included long shirts, dupattas, crop tops, jackets, waistcoats, scarves and men’s shirts.
While the Instagram caption announcing the collection didn’t specifically mention Palestine, it did mention the kefir, the official Palestinian scarf, making it clear that the collection was inspired by the movement.
Later this year, in May, actress Hania Aamir wore a suit from the collection to attend the HUM Style Awards. Taking to the stage to accept her trophy for Most Stylish TV Actress, she spoke about the plight of Gaza in her acceptance speech, and gave “a huge shout-out to Nomi Ansari” for her “thought-provoking outfit.”
Now, designer Maria B. has come up with a capsule line titled “The Palestine Collection,” which ranges from T-shirts to two- and three-piece rompers, with prints featuring black and white kefir, multicolored houndstooth patterns and watermelon, a symbol of the Palestinian struggle against Israel.
The T-shirts are embroidered with the word “Falasteen” in Urdu and a map of Palestine, and there are accessories available too, including pendants, rings, earrings and bracelets, all featuring watermelon, the map of Palestine and the colours of the Palestinian flag.
These efforts are heartwarming, but what were designers thinking when they created collections dedicated to Palestine? Sure, they were making a statement of support, but were a portion of the proceeds also going towards the cause?
In an Instagram story after launching the new collection, Maria B said, “We have been talking about the Falastin collection for a long time and when it was finally completed, we decided that we can’t just pursue profit. So if I sell a suit costing Rs 4,000 for Rs 6,000, apart from the profit, I will also donate Rs 4,000 (cost of making) to the cause through my organisation… All proceeds from the collection will go to Falastin… I think all those who love Falastin will love this collection with its little details that remind them of Palestine.”
Nomi Ansari, meanwhile, said her main aim was to raise awareness for the cause. “The collection was created in solidarity with Palestine, but to be honest, none of the proceeds went to Palestine,” the designer said. “This was my way of sending a message through clothes, and I think it was successful. The designs have been worn everywhere – on red carpets, at major ceremonies. Hania Aamir wore a suit from the collection at the HUM Style Awards because she wanted to spread her support for Palestine on a major platform.”
But could this be interpreted as cashing in on a cause? “I never thought about it like that,” Ansari says. “I’ve been fortunate to have a very successful bridal business. The Threads of Hope collection is the result of my hard work and I hope to continue to do the same for the Palestinian cause.”
In Maria B.’s case, questions have surfaced on social media about how she plans to send the funds to Palestine, when it’s well-known that donations are difficult to make due to the restrictions imposed on Palestinian territories. There are several organizations that are making great efforts to send funds or organize trips to Gaza to help those affected. While the designer did not specify, it’s possible that her company will work with these organizations to ensure that donations reach Palestinians legitimately.
But how do you go about designing a collection inspired by the plight of a country that is constantly suffering? Are there any particular aspects you have in mind?
“Four of the girls and three of the boys in the photo are Palestinian,” Maria B. told Image magazine. “I was inspired by them to design this collection. I studied the embroidery techniques their grandmothers used and incorporated that into the designs. And the keys in the jewelry actually represent the keys that they say their grandmothers used to carry with them all the time. After they were kicked out of their homes, they carried the keys with them for years, hoping that one day they would return and be able to use them to open the doors of their homes,” she explained.
“There is a lot of symbolism in the designs and myself and my team were actually very emotional while creating this collection. It was a difficult process but whoever wears this clothing makes a statement in support of Palestine and acknowledging their traditions and culture.”
Every step is important in raising awareness and elevating the voice of the Palestinian people. Maria B. is a leading high street retailer with multiple stores across the country and the affordable price point of the Palestine collection allows them to reach a large number of customers and spread a vital message during these difficult times.
Meanwhile, Ansari is one of the country’s most sought-after couturiers, known for his meticulous aesthetic and flair for colour and pattern, and his high-fashion line, Threads of Hope, has made a presence at star-studded events and award ceremonies.
From celebrities to ordinary people, from special award ceremonies to university campuses and cafes, this cause must live on from the river to the sea.