At Diesel, it was like landing on a denim planet, as models wearing alien-like colored contact lenses walked down a vast catwalk covered in 15,000 kilos of denim offcuts and deadstock, which had been shredded to form a textured carpet that was difficult for cast and guests alike to walk on.
Interspersed with narration explaining the fabrics, their origins and their inseparable connection to the brand, the striking set was intended as a grand restatement of Diesel’s DNA and commitment to a circular economy (the set itself will be reused and repurposed).
These efforts have intensified under the guidance of creative director Glenn Martens, who has focused on improving the company’s sustainable efforts since joining Diesel in 2020, including the use of regenerated and recycled denim and the introduction of the Library line. For Spring/Summer 2025, Martens again focused on giving value to waste and bringing out the beauty in damaged or destroyed items.
A more mature look compared to the irreverent, cheeky and very cropped fashions of his early days with the brand, the range included artisanal pieces made from leftover denim threads – cropped jackets and coats that replicated the frayed effect of the set – and pieces made from offcuts from Diesel’s own denim production, as seen in a floor-length monk coat.
Denim dominated the collection, with a variety of techniques used, from long fringes woven into the denim to enhance the worn look, to embossed details to recreate whiskers. The same sense of illusion was present throughout, with sculptural cut-out mini dresses and outerwear in denim that was overdyed or sprayed to look like leather or camel fabric, leather jackets distressed to resemble denim, and form-fitting knitted dresses that were laser distressed.
Highlights included a series of sophisticated dresses and tailored pieces featuring the Prince of Wales pattern printed in PVC and long fringes wrapped around the neck, and, closing the show, knotted jersey frocks and tops that reworked vintage Diesel scarves and archival prints for a trompe l’oeil effect.
But the most sustainable style choice was made by Diesel global ambassador and Morne Skin lead singer Damiano David, who was seated in the front row. He ditched his kimono-like getup and left the venue half-naked, revealing the many tattoos on his bare torso, prompting screams of delight from the crowd that had gathered outside to see him and K-pop stars Hoshi, Christine Quinn and Madison Bailey.
