PARIS (AP) — Maria Grazia Chiuri’s collection for Dior took a sporty turn on Tuesday, blending athletic finesse with urban menace. The pared-back designs at the Paris show evoked a ’60s sci-fi aesthetic that was reminiscent of Star Trek, but with an edge, pairing bold asymmetrical shapes with knee-high boots that evoked danger.
Midway through the show, a live archer shot an arrow at a target, leading to cheers and applause from VIPs including Natalie Portman and French First Lady Brigitte Macron, heightening the drama of the collection.
Discover the highlights of our ready-to-wear collection show New for Spring 2025 will also be Saint Laurent with starry designs.
The Battle of Dior
Chiuri’s intention was clear from the start: a nod to the strength and independence of the female form. With clear references to Christian Dior’s iconic Amazone dresses from the early 1950s, Chiuri reinterpreted the silhouette with sleek, sporty lines. Models walked in skin-tight black tops with geometric cut-outs and circular cutaway patterns, paired with lace-up boot sneakers, reflecting the spirit of the recent Paris Olympics. There was a dynamic tension between freedom of movement and structured control, a recurring theme in Chiuri’s work, which often explores the balance between comfort and couture.
A duality was apparent in the collection’s black-and-white palette, evoking the iconic Miss Dior logo and stretched to its graphic limits: monochrome bomber jackets (some accented with vibrant red details) exuded a combat-ready urban vibe, while stark white tuxedos with dangerously sharp fastenings evoked the menace of Hannibal Lecter.
Metallic accents, from shimmering embroidery to butterfly motifs, underscore the austere palette and add a touch of delicacy to the sharpness of the designs. Lightweight evening dresses in jersey enhanced with shiny embellishments underscore Chiuri’s ongoing quest to blend elegance and ease, an ethos that has defined her tenure at Dior.
But despite its urbane grit, the show wasn’t without softer, more playful contrasts. Breton-striped swimsuits offered an unexpected, and ultimately incongruous, interlude in an aggressively urban lineup. This attempt to balance Dior’s classic femininity with a rough, youthful aesthetic felt forced at times. The contrast between the brand’s refined heritage and its try-too-trying urbane appeal made it seem as if the collection was desperately trying to appeal to a younger audience at the expense of its core identity.
Chiuri’s latest work, like her previous ones, does not adhere to a single theme: asymmetry, athleticism and independence are at the heart of this collection.
Archery and the Arts at Dior
One of the most notable moments at the Dior show was a live performance by artist Sag Napoli, who incorporates archery into his work. Standing in an enclosed tunnel in the middle of the runway, the artist with rippling shoulder muscles shot arrows with a high-tech bow, symbolizing the harmony of mind and body. The performance paid homage to the themes of strength and athleticism central to Chiuri’s collection, which was inspired in part by the Paris 2024 Olympics.
The performance, which showcased skill and precision, was met with rapturous applause from the audience, which included VIPs such as Aya Nakamura, Jennifer Garner and Rosamund Pike.
When asked by the Associated Press if she felt like an Amazon, Natalie Portman replied, “I’m a very small person, so I’m the opposite of an Amazon, but my spirit is intact.”
Chiuri’s decision to incorporate the performance underscored her continued focus on the intersection of fashion, sport and gender equality.
The phrase “May building a strong mind and a strong body be the greatest job I ever did” appeared on set, emphasizing the message of strength and empowerment throughout the show.
Saint Laurent brings a somber vibe with a preppy 70s vibe.
At the Saint Laurent show at the Left Bank on Tuesday night, A-listers Gwyneth Paltrow and Rami Malek added the evening’s star power. Anthony Vaccarello continues his exploration of exaggerated proportions, but he took his penchant for architecturally broad, oversized shoulders to bold new heights.
The collection had an introspective vibe, with preppy spectacles, ’70s-style sunglasses and sharp suiting reminiscent of the late Yves Saint Laurent. Silk foulard motifs on slinky gowns, paired with statement gold-braided earrings, exuded a tactile elegance reminiscent of Vaccarello’s earlier, more refined collections, while subtly alluding to the house’s historic obsession with luxury.
The designer’s trademark minimalism was on full display, particularly in the pared-back, controlled silhouettes of the opening look. As with previous collections, a reliance on precision tailoring and quiet luxury gave the show an air of caution and restraint, but it also veered too far toward playing it safe. Critics who have noted his penchant for oversimplification in past seasons will have noticed this in the first half of the show.
But as is often the case with Vaccarello’s work, the true brilliance of the collection came in the second half. He took more risks, introducing rich, luxurious textures like velvet, lace and shimmering metallics into a palette of deep golds, blues and reds. These more opulent elements were combined with bold ruffled collars and sunray pleats for striking contrast. This final burst of creativity felt fresh and contemporary, while still echoing historical references from the ’70s.
ANREALAGE EXPANDS, FUSION FUSES SURREALISM AND THE SPACE AGE
Morinaga Kunihiko’s ANREALAGE always manages to surprise, and Tuesday’s collection was no exception. The show opened with a visually striking parachute design, a whimsical mix of Elizabethan elegance and Haribo-inspired playfulness. The billowy silhouettes instantly set the tone for a collection that danced between the past and the future, while geometric, space-age metallic embellishments served as bold hairpieces, deepening the anachronisms that recalled historical hairstyles.
Known for his technical prowess and futuristic thinking, Morinaga fused traditional couture with avant-garde experimentation. A distorted circular puffer jacket recalled the outlandish creations of Viktor & Rolf Couture, which pushed the boundaries of wearable fashion. Bright, candy-colored clown-like silhouettes appeared one after the other as the show progressed.
But not everything was perfect. Though the technical issues that have plagued past shows were absent this time, Morinaga’s obsession with spectacle sometimes left wearability in doubt; the inflated, exaggerated shapes were impressive but hardly street-ready. But these bold pieces certainly reaffirmed ANREALAGE’s mission to dazzle with innovation, like the viral color-changing collection worn by Beyoncé last year.
Vaquera celebrates 10th anniversary with a rebellious twist on classic products
Vaquera celebrated its 10th anniversary with a bold yet introspective show, fusing its rebellious DNA with a sharp focus on wearability. Known for pushing boundaries, designers Patrick DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee continue to evolve without losing their edge. This spring, the duo zeroed in on what they called “new basics,” but true to Vaquera style, they were anything but ordinary.
Think black bubble mini skirts with built-in bike shorts, bullet bra tops, and button-downs paired with strapless bras. These styles walk the fine line between fetish and functionality, embodying the brand’s signature playfulness while attracting a loyal following. Vaquera’s take on “basic” is anything but basic, and it’s working; their collections continue to sell well on e-commerce platforms.
But beneath the show’s rebellious vibe, there’s a sense of recalibration. After a decade of defying the rules, DiCaprio and Taubensee are adapting to the economic pressures of the fashion industry. Gone are the giant Tiffany-blue dustbag dresses of their breakout years. Now, they’re creating work that balances artistic vision with commercial success. Vaquera’s punk ethos remains, but it’s growing.
But their subversive tendencies are undeniable: Denim jeans were embellished with intertwining Vs, oversized gold chain prints and winged Pegasus motifs, a cheeky wink at luxury brands. Kitten-heeled cowboy boots and quirky pumps rounded out the collection, adding a sophisticated edge to their signature subversiveness.
Now in their 20th year, Vaquera’s mission statement is clear: stay bold, stay rebellious, but with a touch of sophistication. As they carve out a path to the future, they prove that even the most rebellious bands can evolve without losing their spark.
