They’re not walking cats.
Despite growing calls for plus-size inclusion on the runways in recent years, recent fashion weeks held around the world have marked a notable retreat from the industry’s recent trend toward body positivity. Officials have condemned the move as “disappointing”.
The shift comes as trendy weight-loss drugs like Ozempic are bringing back skinny chic, a phenomenon some say controversial, with designers also making reference to the phenomenon at this year’s shows.
A new report from Vogue Business finds that of the 8,763 looks shown at 208 presentations this season in New York, London, Milan, and Paris, plus-size models (US size 14 and up) ) were worn by less than 1%.
Meanwhile, 4.3% were medium sizes, US sizes 6 to 12, and nearly 95% were straight sizes, US sizes 0 to 4.
The report says the survey results reflect last year’s results, but insiders such as Emma Davidson, Dazed’s director of fashion features, believe 2024 is the “worst year” for representatives in “a long time”. season.”
“For a while it felt like brands were turning their backs on inclusive casting, but this season I’ve sat in my seat several times at shows that traditionally had big models. But I was very disappointed to see that no one was appearing. It feels like the nail in the coffin for the season,” she told the magazine.
Looks from cult-favorite “It” brands like Coperni and Miu Miu accounted for 0% of plus-size runway looks, while Estelle Manas and Rick Owns each took first place on the Paris plus-size runway and ranked second. Milan, on the other hand, had the smallest comprehensive size and London the largest.
In New York, only four of the top 10 brands have no plus-size models at all, and Vogue reports that that number is lower than last season.
Some fashionistas don’t even try to hide their love for the toothpick look. On TikTok, a video of this season’s Balmain model was captioned “Slimnest model ever”, with viewers praising her looks, calling her “unreal” and “perfect”. ” and calls her a “true model.”
“It feels like we’ve taken 10 steps back,” Anna Shillinglaw, founder of modeling agency Milk Management, told the Guardian.
“I now feel that some high-end designers may have seen curvaceous women as a fashion trend rather than a reality,” she muses.
Casting director Emma Mattel also told the magazine that she saw models who were “unwell” arriving at shows “exhausted, shaking and with blue lips.”
Emily McGrail, 21, a model from Manchester, is compared to other models when she appears on the catwalk, despite being “perceived as being underweight” for her height and age. I felt fat,” he told the Guardian. The skinny model even admitted that she felt “bigger” standing next to the other girls in the room.
“As a model, you walk into a room and you might get turned down 10 to 15 times a day. If that happened to you, you’d want to change yourself,” Mattel told the Guardian. “Next season you’ll want to be better. And looking at the runway you have now, you might think that means losing weight.”
Off the catwalk, the trend towards weight loss has increased as celebrities have started losing weight. Fans speculated that the Kardashians were keeping their curves to a minimum.
Now, orthopedic surgeons are claiming that the “ballet body,” characterized by an athletic, slender frame, is a new “trend.”
Of course, the weight loss drug craze goes without saying.
Ozempic’s popularity has fueled shortages, illegal second-hand sales online and dangerous ducks, while the jab has also inspired Halloween costumes.
“We’re back to where we were 10 years ago,” former casting director James Scully told the Guardian.
“These models are just serving a purpose. They’re not here to bring any personality or joy or to sell anything. They’re back on the clothes hanger.”
