To the upbeat sounds of “Everything is Romantic,” a song remixed by Charlie XCX himself for the show, Giuliano Calza presented his Spring 2025 collection, “Flowers of the Concrete.” The show took place in the Italian stock exchange palace, best known for the “LOVE” sculpture by Maurizio Cattelan, which holds up the middle finger in front of it. The delicate flowers that bloom in harsh conditions are a metaphor for the resilient women embodied by contemporary pop artists and icons, and are a key (almost obsessive) source of inspiration for Calza. During a preview in his office, Calza mentioned Charlie XCX, but also Bianca Censoli. The “stubborn energy” of these women, in Calza’s words, prompted a reflection on the way niches evolve and, at times, become globally accepted.
All this was the starting point for the collection that Karza wanted the community to feel. So there were items that fans could easily recreate at home, such as V-shaped stretchy tops, often derived from existing T-shirts, and sheer knitwear and tights used as colorful, super-pop bodysuits. These suggestions were combined with duchess satin pieces and tailored pieces, such as pencil skirts, bombers and mini dresses with steamy silhouettes, with the idea of creating a clear contrast. This contrast was also seen in the color palette (the juxtaposition of bright tones from orange to purple) and was further explored through multiple shades of green, including, of course, “brat green.”
Kaluza’s pop explorations and reinterpretations were once again a central theme, but in more subtle ways, such as his trademark Hello Kitty bikini, this time in a yellow version peeking out from the geometric neckline of a mini dress.
