“Flowers in concrete” is what Giuliano Calza called his collection of tangible, tenacious characters, defying hatred and always one step ahead. They inspired his GCDS Spring 2025 collection, shown on the runway of the Milan Stock Exchange lawn to a custom soundtrack by Charli XCX, whose rise from Myspace singer to election-influencing Brat Pop star took 15 years.
“This is the energy of my generation,” Kaluza said backstage, “Basically, you get rejected over and over and over again … but at the end you claim your colors and you succeed.”
There was a nature-conscious atmosphere, with the smell of fresh grass and natural wine on offer, but it also felt like a sweaty rave, he said, with everyone bringing their own personalities and wearing braided green and other loud colors.
The star of the collection is a V-shaped bodysuit made of mesh and tulle that is as sheer as a swimsuit and as shiny as evening wear, and can be worn by both men and women.
Textures ranged from see-through to hairy, skimpy bodysuits were paired with demure bubble minis and raw-edged bomber jackets were paired with beautifully draped skirts. See-through tights and knee-high socks added a quirky touch to dressed-up looks, balanced by sexy see-through lingerie and versatile windbreakers, track pants and leather bomber jackets.
“That’s the vibe,” he laughs. “It’s always a soft rave…but try and add a subtle touch.”
Karza also included more sophisticated accessories, such as the “Call Me Comma” bag in tortoiseshell acetate and fluffy kitten heels.
He reprised the see-through GCDS bodysuits made famous by Doja Cat this summer, but said backstage that he had them on male models at the suggestion of stylist Carine Roitfeld. He also brought some summer leather to the table, as seen on Angelina Jolie, who arrived in fall fashion at the sweaty Venice Film Festival in August.
While Kaluza clearly has his finger on the pulse of pop culture, he also hasn’t forgotten about himself, and the kids who helped make his brand what it is today.
“I think I live in the best of both worlds,” the designer said.
