FREEPORT, Maine (AP) — What was invented 80 years ago by L.L. Bean to transport heavy blocks of ice has now become a staple summer fashion accessory.
The simple, sturdy canvas bag, called the “Boat and Tote,” remains popular 80 years after its introduction, thanks to the social media trend of monogramming sarcastic or flashy phrases.
New York resident Gracie Weiner started the movement by posting a humble L.L. Bean bag with “Psycho” and the monogram of Italian luxury brand Prada, as well as her name and initials, on Instagram, after which others began sharing their own unique bags on TikTok.
Eventually, simply monogramming bags with words like “Schlepper,” “HOT MESS,” “slayyyy” and “cool mom” was not enough. Customers began testing the limits of L.L. Bean’s monogram department censors’ ban on profane “or other offensive words or phrases” with more provocative words like “Bite me,” “Dum Blonde” and “Ambitchous.”
Beth Goldstein, an analyst at Circana, which tracks consumer spending and trends, said social media has fueled the surge, as have Stanley tumblers and Trader Joe’s $2.99 canvas bags that once sold for $200 on eBay.
Tote bags made a comeback at a time when sales were declining as price-conscious consumers gave up on expensive handbags, and L.L. Bean bags fit that bill precisely as functional items that are on-trend precisely because they’re not trendy, she said. A regular L.L. Bean bag costs up to about $55, but higher-end versions can cost more than $100.
“There’s a trend towards practical, simple and more affordable items,” she said, adding that customization adds to the appeal. “Status items don’t necessarily have to be at designer price points.”
The LL Bean tote bag was first advertised in the company’s catalog as the Bean’s Ice Carrier in 1944 during World War II, when coolers were common. The tote bag then disappeared, but was reintroduced in 1965 as the Boat and Tote.
Today, these bags are still made in Maine and can carry 500 pounds of ice, but they’re much more likely to carry a laptop, headphones, groceries, books, beach gear, travel essentials, and other general items.
The tongue-in-cheek, pop-inspired slogan has made the hat a sassy must-have that has spread beyond Maine, Cape Cod, Massachusetts, and other New England locations to places like Los Angeles and New York City, where fashionistas like Gwyneth Paltrow, Reese Witherspoon, and Sarah Jessica Parker have sported the hat — and not always with the tongue-in-cheek slogan.
“It’s one of those things that makes people smile and laugh, and it’s something unexpected,” said Weiner, who started her own Instagram page, @ironicboatandtote, as a fun side hustle to her job as social media manager for Air Mail, the digital publication launched by former Vanity Fair editor-in-chief Graydon Carter.
People at L.L. Bean are surprised and pleased by the continued growth: For the past two years, Boat & Tote has been L.L. Bean’s biggest contributor to new customer acquisition, with sales up 64% from fiscal year 2021 to fiscal year 2023, spokeswoman Amanda Hanna said.
This sudden surge in popularity is reminiscent of L.L. Bean’s traditional hunting shoe, an iconic staple for walking through the rain and mud, which became all the rage a few years ago thanks to its college student following.
