LONDON — British fashion designer Martine Rose on Wednesday released the lookbook for her fall 2024 collection, which included 12 looks that weren’t included in the brand’s unexpected show in Paris.
The designer, who rarely plays by the rules, decided to hold a last-minute fashion show during Paris Men’s Fashion Week in January, despite the invitation calling it a film screening event, where a recording of his previous runway presentation in London was screened in front of an audience made up of friends and family from the area who had walked the runway.
She showed off 21 looks at the event, held at the Cuban Café in the 18th arrondissement, while most of the press were on their way to dinner after the star-studded Amis show, which finished around 9.30pm that day.
Martine Rose Fall 2024
Courtesy of Martine Rose/Jamie Morgan
Learning from that mistake, for the spring 2025 showcase in Milan, Rose told WWD during a preview, “We want to do the opposite, make it very accessible. We want to invite as many people from the industry as possible.”
With the expanded Fall 2024 lineup, Rose further explores the concept of clothing as a tool for empowerment. She studied how clothes are worn, fusing notes on gestures, movement, and mannerisms with her own interpretations of men’s tailoring, sportswear, and everything in between. With a diverse cast and methodical poses, the lookbook arguably conveys her observations better than it ever could on a Paris runway.
Martine Rose Fall 2024
Courtesy of Martine Rose/Jamie Morgan
Highlights of the collection include jackets, gilets, dresses and tops that have been deconstructed and reconstructed into genre-defying pieces, as well as colorful moiré and nappa blazers, psychedelic space-print T-shirts incorporating knots that mimic the effect of a jumper wrapped around the shoulders, denim pieces in yellowish black wash and camouflage patterns, and a tailored jacket with the lining pulled out of the sleeve to create makeshift cuffs.
Footwear featured in the lookbook includes Rose’s own designs as well as slingback heels, padded mules and padded oxfords from his second collaboration with Clarks.