Nenshi Dojaka has long been influenced by sensual style, so it was only natural that her return to London Fashion Week would focus on the most intimate of our style. Under the architectural corsets and floating organza of her Spring/Summer 2025 collection, her first in two seasons, Dojaka debuted her collaboration with the undisputed king of lingerie, Calvin Klein.
The classic, minimalist brand blended seamlessly with Dojaka’s, bringing back the strong sexiness that has become the hallmark of both labels. Naturally, there was mutual influence, and Dojaka admitted to looking to Calvin Klein for inspiration. “Calvin Klein is a brand that I’ve always loved and have always looked to,” Dojaka told Harper’s Bazaar. “The aim was to blend my point of view with Calvin Klein’s point of view, which is[the brand’s]minimalist aesthetic with beautiful precision.”
Her vision was brought to life through a sheer black bodysuit and a burgundy bra with a harness, each paired with a cropped jacket and low-rise trousers with thigh-high slits. Floral ruffled dresses and airy pleated capes also made appearances on the runway. These pieces reflected the inspiration behind the runway collection, creating a balance (and sometimes tension) between strength and softness. For Dojaka, her return to London Fashion Week is more of an evolution than a comeback.
In addition to expanding the styles, the designer says the collection’s target audience has also grown. In addition to pops of color and strategic cut-outs, the collection is designed to fit more body types. “Small details from the past are now presented on a larger scale, creating movement, which is something entirely new for the brand,” Dojaca adds. “The idea is to put fantasy in a more realistic context.”
Of course, no brand knows better than Calvin Klein, whose legendary campaigns have featured the likes of Kate Moss and, more recently, Jeremy Allen White. But Klein’s collaboration with Dojaka isn’t based on the same celebrity fantasy. Instead, its structured underwear reflects both fluidity and rigidity within the bodies that wear it.
“Calvin was an easy yes for me because I really wanted the opportunity to work with their amazing, very knowledgeable team to create intimate wear for all women that combined their impeccable development while still retaining subtle design,” says Dojaka. After all, designing intimate wear seems to bring that natural second skin, real feel that she speaks most about.
Maya Ernest is an editor covering everything from the latest fashion news to features exploring personal style, social media trends and thoughtful consumption.
