For spring, Tod’s and its creative director, Matteo Tamburini, had a clear message.
Across the vast grounds of Milan’s Macchi Foundry stood a monumental sculpture by artist Lorenzo Quinn: two giant plaster hands gripping crossed leather bands. The artist explained that this symbolizes Tod’s craftsmanship, Italian know-how, and the importance of hand-crafted work. On either side of the sculpture, Tod’s artisans in white dresses could be seen hand-stitching Tod’s signature rubber minnow moccasins.
The stage was set for Tamburini to celebrate “artisan intelligence” and emphasize the value of the individual, a message reiterated by Tod’s Chairman and CEO Diego Della Valle on the sidelines of the show.
Leather was there, of course, as it always is at Tod’s, but with a seasonal lightness, like a pretty green pleated dress. His starting point was a trip along the Mediterranean coast—”I started in Italy, of course,” Tamburini says with a smile—which meant “a more relaxed approach in terms of shapes and materials compared to autumn.” His mood board was adorned with photographs by Luigi Ghiri, and the royal atmosphere of the beach was the designer’s inspiration.
This led to new patterns at Tod’s: stripes on crisp cotton fabrics, checks printed inside out on very thin cotton skirts and tops, creating a veiled effect.
In his unisex collection, Tamburini reimagines the cotton and leather trench coat with new, fluid volumes in different lengths. The coats are chic, practical and comfortable. Windbreakers are developed in resin-coated cotton or ultra-light nappa.
Suits with cropped jackets were more form fitting.
The sandals were oversized and flat, and several bags and pumps were made from reptile, ostrich and crocodile skins, one of which was worn by Naomi Campbell in the form of a new bucket bag, adding to the collection’s luxurious appeal.
Tod’s signature Gommino pebble-sole loafers were also presented as clogs with a more prominent toe, and some models came with gold metal rings, a detail that was also featured on some of the dresses.
In his second collection for Tod’s, Tamburini proved he was pushing boundaries further while still embracing the brand’s universe, aesthetic and values, experimenting with volumes, fabrics and fits.