PARIS — Valentino is launching an haute couture fragrance line called “Anatomy of Dreams.”
The line’s seven fragrances, available from Monday, come at a time of rapid growth for the brand’s perfume business, and the scents are inspired by a variety of sources.
“It’s Roman hedonism expressed in Valentino’s DNA,” said a Valentino beauty spokesperson, incorporating the idea of a dreamy Roman palazzo.
The gender-neutral fragrances blend traditional perfume notes with scents that evoke everyday Italian life and a modern twist — a dichotomy Valentino executives describe as “edgige,” or a marriage of edgy and traditional.
“When these two worlds meet, magic happens,” the spokesperson said.
In high fashion style, perfumes are customizable and can be layered as desired by the consumer. Additionally, there are two fragrance enhancers that can be added on top of the scent to fine-tune the scent impression: one that gives a stronger scent element, the other a lighter scent element. They can also be used alone.
“We’re creating more haute couture than what’s currently on the market, which we know is a key need because Gen Z’s No. 1 motivation is to feel unique,” the spokesperson said.
Sogno in Rosso, whose name translates to “Red Dream,” was created by DSM-Firmenich perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin, who said there were two key elements of Valentino’s DNA he wanted to respect when creating the scent.
Sogno in Rosso from Valentino’s Anatomy of Dreams collection.
Photo: Marius W. Hansen/Courtesy of Valentino Beauty
“The first thing that came to mind was red, the iconic color that represents Valentino,” he says, “and it also has a chic, elegant, Italian side.”
For the latter, the perfumer created a harmonium of the aroma of milk foam, a key ingredient in cappuccino, which he describes as very sensual, enveloping and slightly gourmand-like, but neither too sticky nor too sweet.
“For contrast, to get that red color, I wanted to introduce some spicy notes,” he continued, so Peregrine used black pepper.
For example, “L’Innocence de l’Air” contains the scent of rose with a hint of green tangerine, while “Private Talk” contains notes of tuberose and cappuccino.
“There’s this feeling of comfort throughout the line that makes it so unique,” a Valentino beauty spokesperson said.
For this collection, the brand collaborated with perfumers from different fragrance houses: Paul Guerlain at IFF for Notte d’Oro, Nathalie L’Orson at DSM Firmenich for Renocent de L’Europe, Nicolas Bonneville at DSM Firmenich for Private Talk, Carlos Benaim and Andrew Everett at IFF for Club Couture, Fanny Bal at IFF for Punk Romantique, and Delphine Lebeau and Anne Flipo at IFF for Behind the Scenes.
The perfume names are written in French, Italian and English, demonstrating Valentino’s international reach.
The colorful fragrances are housed in heavy, rectangular, clear glass bottles with the brand’s signature studs, reminiscent of the design of Roman doors, a glass cap also with studs, and a name tag on the bottle made from a fabric used in Valentino couture.
The Anatomy of Dreams online campaign showcases the perfume and its ingredients in lusciously colored photography shot by Marius W. Hansen, intended not just to catch the eye but to make the perfume bottle an object of desire in today’s busy, visual world, and to pique intrigue about its contents.
“Some people are interested in[the brand]because of the ingredients,” a Valentino beauty spokesperson said. “Others are attracted by the story. This is very new. What has changed in the last two years is that one in four Gen Zers will buy this type of fragrance without trying it first.”
This is despite the fact that premium niche fragrances often come with a hefty price tag.
“People read a lot online before they buy,” the spokesperson continued, “and they’re drawn to stories and narratives. So the visual element of the image is also important, because it has to be 10 times more powerful.”
The spokesperson pointed out that another trend that has changed over the same period is that the best-selling fragrances in New York, Shanghai, Dubai and Rome now tend to look very similar, thanks to social media, and TikTok in particular, changing the playing field.
“The TikTok generation has made perfume sexy, cool and powerful again,” the spokesperson said. “Online conversations about luxury niche fragrances last an average of three minutes. Three minutes is a long time.”
New times call for new strategies: At launch, Valentino will release a 30ml trial bottle for €135, a size that historically joins a fragrance portfolio three to four years after a perfume franchise is launched.
“This was done with the aim of really capturing the younger generation,” the spokesman said, adding that the idea is that people will then switch to a larger scale.
The 100ml version of Anatomy of Dreams will retail for 325 euros, more than 50 percent more than Valentino’s other fragrances.
The collection will have very limited distribution: Starting Monday, the fragrances will be available exclusively in Valentino boutiques for one month, after which they will be rolled out to a handful of select department stores around the world.
A Valentino Beauty spokesman declined to discuss sales projections, but industry sources estimate the line could generate 200 million euros in annual retail sales over the next three years.
Since development of the fragrance project began, Valentino’s artistic director, Pierpaolo Piccioli, has left the label and been replaced by Alessandro Michele, but that hasn’t changed the trajectory of Anatomy of Dreams.
“From the beginning, the inspiration wasn’t the designer, but the codes and DNA of the House,” the spokesperson said.
The brand’s fragrance and beauty licence was bought by L’Oreal six years ago, when the business had annual retail sales of around €60 million. Today, sales exceed €1 billion.
This impressive growth is due in part to Valentino’s flagship product, Born in Rome, which is ranked second in prestige women’s fragrances and fourth in prestige men’s fragrances in the United States.
“We are growing fast in Europe and are in the top 10,” said a Valentino beauty spokesman, whose biggest markets in Europe are Britain, Germany and the Nordic countries.
“There is still a lot of market to conquer,” the spokesperson continued.
Valentino has also entered new product categories.
“The makeover is a long marathon, but it’s strategic,” the spokesperson said. “There will be a big surprise coming soon.”
