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As the saying goes, nothing is certain except death, taxes, and waking up with a puffy face. You’ve tried cutting back on salt and going grain-free. You’ve invested in an “emotional support” water bottle. Maybe you’ve jumped on the ice rolling habit (or dunked your face in ice water every morning). You’ve tried everything, and nothing changes. When it feels like you’ve exhausted all other options, you know stress might be to blame. The internet is calling it cortisol face, pointing out the connection between cortisol and skin health.
Although sheet masks are super hydrating, this quick (and admittedly relaxing) solution isn’t going to do much to relieve stress in the long run. Don’t get me wrong—I’m wearing a face mask as I write this article—but if accumulated stress is wreaking havoc on your skin and body, it might be time to look more deeply into the relationship between cortisol and your skin.
Featured image from Michelle Nash’s interview with Sanne Vloet.
Cortisol and Skin: The Surprising Connection
Cortisol is the stress hormone, and like any hormone, imbalance can wreak havoc on your body. Poor gut health can lead to estrogen imbalance, while a B vitamin deficiency can affect testosterone. While the time frame varies from person to person, research shows that by taking a holistic approach to your health, it’s possible to balance your hormones within a matter of months. That’s why getting your cortisol levels back to manageable levels is so important for your skin and all aspects of your health.
To learn more about cortisol on the face and its connection to skin, I consulted Danuta Mieroci. Mieroci is a celebrity esthetician (clients include Naomi Campbell and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley), owner of Rescue Spa, and founder of Danucela Skincare. She knows the power of combining intentional topical treatments with good health habits, and has seen a direct connection between skin-supportive, stress-reducing habits and healthy, resilient skin. Read on for Mieroci’s expert advice.
Danuta Mieroti
Danuta Mieloch is an award-winning aesthetician, entrepreneur and founder known for her mastery and compassionate approach to skin care, helping thousands of clients take care of their skin for over 30 years.
What is Cortisol Face?
Social media is filled with before-and-after reels showing dramatic transformations and what cortisol looks like on the face. “Recognizing these signs can help provide targeted, effective treatment,” says Mieloch. But if you’ve been experiencing elevated cortisol for a while (perhaps without realizing it and not recognizing stress as a baseline), the visible effects may not be as obvious. According to Mieloch, elevated cortisol can manifest as:
Swelling. Do you wake up bloated the night after eating something salty? Increased water and sodium retention are also symptoms of high cortisol levels. Increased redness. As the body responds to and regulates high cortisol levels, blood rushes to the skin, and increased blood flow can lead to redness. Redness can also be a response to irritation due to a compromised skin barrier. Acne. Cortisol increases sebum production, clogging pores with excess oil. Slower healing. Increased stress inhibits the repair process, slowing healing. Inflammation. Cortisol worsens inflammatory conditions and increases inflammation. Premature aging. The breakdown of collagen and elastin can lead to signs of premature aging, such as fine lines and sun spots.
Myths about cortisol and the skin
For all the claims of dramatic life-changing benefits, there are a lot of myths surrounding cortisol and skin. Now more than ever, more people are looking to find solutions to their cortisol problems.
Myth #1: Cortisol only causes acne
“Cortisol has a number of effects beyond acne,” says Mierok: While everyone’s skin responds differently to stress, elevated cortisol can cause everything from dryness to redness and sensitivity.
Stress also disrupts the skin’s barrier function — in fact, a compromised skin barrier is the first sign of stressed skin — and can also exacerbate other skin concerns by increasing inflammation and sensitivity.
Myth #2: Cortisol has an immediate effect on the skin
Despite what you may hear online about “dysregulation,” an occasional, short-term spike in cortisol isn’t all that harmful. Stress is a fact of life. There are plenty of things that stress us out every day, and it’s a normal response to stimuli that we can deal with by experiencing in small amounts. But when cortisol levels remain high for an extended period of time (some sources say six months or more), chronic stress may be at play.
According to Mieloch, it’s chronic stress “rather than short-term spikes” that contributes to changes in skin. If you’re chronically stressed, there may not be a direct stressor, but your cortisol levels will remain high and the effects will show up in your skin.
Myth #3: Only psychological stress affects your skin
“Physical stress also increases cortisol, which affects the skin,” says Mierok. This is the type of stress that occurs when your body is exposed to factors that cause physical tension, triggering a stress response. Physical stress can come in the form of anything from environmental toxins to unhealthy diet, lack of sleep, and even exercise.
Stress relief methods to incorporate into your daily life
Lifestyle factors can not only contribute to stress, but they can also help reduce it, and many healthy habits can help reduce the impact cortisol has on your skin.
Prioritize low-impact movements.
Regular exercise doesn’t have to be scary. Whether it’s dancing around your living room or hitting the gym, incorporating exercise into your daily life can help relieve stress. However, it’s important to pay attention to the type of exercise you do and your recovery process. As mentioned above, exercise puts physical stress on the body. Research has shown that HIIT training can significantly increase cortisol levels immediately after training, and can keep cortisol levels elevated for a long time to come.
If your goal is to reduce the effects of cortisol on your skin, low-impact exercise is a powerful tool: anything from walking to yoga to slow, strength-focused exercise can be effective.
Work on mindfulness.
Just a few minutes of mindfulness can do wonders for your cortisol levels, which in turn will benefit your skin. Taking time to focus on deep breathing can take your body out of fight-or-flight mode and quiet the noise in your head. Mierok recommends mindfulness techniques like nasal breathing and general breathing exercises. Practices like yoga or tai chai combine movement and mindfulness to help reset your entire body. Tip: You can also practice mindfulness throughout your day. This guide to living more mindfully is a great place to start.
Limit your caffeine intake.
Caffeine is a stimulant that increases your heart rate and spikes cortisol levels. (If you’re downing your third cold brew while reading this article, take a quick body check and notice if you’re feeling anxious rather than energized.) Try replacing one of your caffeinated drinks with a hydrating drink. Before your morning coffee, try making Sexy Water, a hydration trend that makes drinking water fun and more effective.
Though it’s often overlooked, the importance of making time for the important people in your life can’t be overstated. Seeking support during stressful times is one of the best things you can do for your long-term health. Sometimes, a heart-to-heart talk is the best medicine.
What supplements will reduce cortisol?
To support your lifestyle changes, Mieloch recommends the following supplements:
Ashwagandha. This is one of the most effective supplements for stress. It changes the way the body metabolizes cortisol, making it a mainstay of Ayurvedic medicine. Rhodiola Rosea. This adaptogenic herb promotes balance and sustained energy. Omega-3 fatty acids. Not only are these good for your heart, they are also great for your skin and stress levels. They may also reduce inflammation in the body and support plump, hydrated skin. You can get them from fish oil supplements, or from algae-based options if you’re on a plant-based diet. Magnesium. Most women are deficient in magnesium. Find the type that’s right for you and you’ll see reduced cortisol, increased energy, improved sleep, and many other benefits. Stress Relief Teas. Different tea blends have been used for centuries to address a variety of issues. Choose from chamomile, jasmine, green tea, and other calming blends.
Best Skin Care Routine for Cortisol Face
Addressing cortisol starts with your lifestyle, but there are steps you can take to improve the effects cortisol has on your skin. If your skin is stressed and your skin barrier is broken, Mieroci recommends following the basics: “Make sure you have regular facials and good skin care habits,” she says.
She says a skin care routine for the cortisol face should include:
Anti-inflammatory clean beauty. “Fragrance-free skin care helps reduce inflammation. Avoid overly active products and generally overusing products.” Moisturizer. Stressed skin lacks moisture. The right moisturizer will soothe the skin and rebuild the moisture barrier. Sunscreen. Sunscreen prevents further damage to the skin and premature aging. It also protects the skin from environmental stressors and UV damage.
Mierotti also recommends at-home facial massages to boost blood and lymphatic flow in the face. A thorough facial massage with your favorite multi-purpose face mask and a massage tool like an ice roller or gua sha stone can help ward off cortisol face.
