“I actually had no intention of doing a show this year, especially with the move into wholesale, and was going to skip the season and focus on production,” Jackson Wiederhoft told WWD ahead of NYFW, noting that his fantasy brand’s fall collection will soon be available on Net-a-porter. However, the designer enlisted the help of sponsors Capital One and Michelin to actually stage a runway show (much to his delight). After the show, the runway space was transformed into an intimate dinner with New York restaurant Hugs.
He began the show with dancers in “simple black outfits,” as well as lace-up, “eroded” boned corsets covered in mother-of-pearl embroidery and tulle feathers that swayed and clanged around the dimly lit room throughout the performance. His lineup then incorporated fascinating new materials, using tiny pink stones, raffia, and even more seashells to embellish beautiful designs.
Many flaunted corsets, which have become his trademark, as seen in the stern new silver-grey strapless Julia silhouette, cut in terry or accessorized with tassels on shimmering gowns completely embellished with pink bugle beads — just one example that paid homage to the home category he plans to launch next year. The lineup also included a strong assortment of his popular bridalwear, including embroidered boxer shorts, sexy lace lingerie-inspired pieces, a trompe l’oeil “Shadowgate” dress (said to be inspired by the likes of ’40s drama Black Daffodil), and an eye-catching, glamorous ivory corseted gown covered in drop-hand embroidery of rosettes, barnacles and crystals.
Then came the brides, 26 of them in matching white wasp corsets, pencil skirts and veils that matched his size 26 designs, a powerful, celebratory display of inclusive size.
Over the past few months, Wiederhoft has been focusing on a corset sizing program to make corsets more accessible. Calling it the “summer of Math Girl,” he’s working on expanding his signature Wasp silhouette from double zero to size 30, with four additional sub-sizes (Classic, Classic Curve, Petite and Petite Curve). There will be 68 sizes in total, with 28 metal bones in each size.
“I want everyone to be able to find someone who looks like them in that crowd,” he said.